History of Rock Climbing in Nepal
The history of rock climbing in Nepal is rooted in the broader mountaineering activities. When there were traditional mountaineering activities, rock climbing was not even in someone’s thoughts. However, due to the requirements of technical skills like rope management, belaying, and anchor placement in climbing, climbers used to do the rock climbing before going for the mountain climbs.
Then, the infrastructures were developed for outdoor rock climbing at first. The popularity of rock climbing kept on increasing as it was easier and safer than the mountain climbs. Time passed and the infrastructure for indoor rock climbing also developed, which boosted its popularity.
After the infrastructure for indoor rock climbing developed, the attraction of the beginner climbers increased. As of now, rock climbing is an important part of Nepal's adventure tourism industry. A large number of tourists go for the climbing in the popular areas like Nagarjun Forest Reserve near Kathmandu and other sites around Pokhara.
Types of Rock Climbing Available in Nepal
In Nepal, you can experience various rock climbing adventures. Both beginners and advanced climbers can experience the thrill. Some of the rock climbing types available in Nepal are:
Sport climbing is a popular form of rock climbing. In this rock climbing type, pre-drilled holes with permanent anchors are used for clipping the rope into place. There is both indoor and outdoor sport climbing available in Nepal. The techniques used in the sport climbing are clipping, footwork, and body positioning.
The sport climbing can be divided into:
- Single-Pitch Climbing: Involves climbing one section of rock without needing to change belay stations.
- Multi-Pitch Climbing: Involves several sections of climbing, requiring climbers to set up belays at multiple points along the route.
The indoor sport climbing (a type of rock climbing in Kathmandu) centers are Astrek Climbing Wall and Kathmandu Sport Climbing Center (KSCC). The outdoor sport climbing centers in Nepal include Nagarjun Cliffs, Hattiban Cliffs, Bimal Nagar Cliffs, and so on.
- Traditional (Trad) Climbing
Traditional climbing, also known as trad climbing, is a form of free climbing. In this form of climbing, lead climbers place their own protection devices into the rock as they ascend. It is completely different from sport climbing.
The routes are marked by bolts. It is the sole responsibility of the climbers for navigation and making decisions on where to place the protection. The techniques used in trad climbing are jamming, placing gear, belaying, and so on.
Bouldering is a type of rock climbing in Nepal that is performed on the small rock formations or artificial walls. It is done without rope or harness. On bouldering, the climbers use climbing shoes and chalk to maintain grip and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls.
You can do this climbing with minimal gear and equipment. However, this climbing requires physical strength, agility, mental resilience, and focus. Bouldering is different in scope, gear, and approach from the traditional climbing options.
Alpine climbing is a unique form of rock climbing that involves technical climbing at high elevations. It is especially practiced with the goal of summiting peaks. The skills required for it are rope systems mastery and self-arrest and crevasse rescue.
The most important gear needed for alpine climbing are crampons, ice axes, carabiners, slings, ropes, first aid and rescue equipment, and so on. By learning this climbing, you can enjoy the unique blend of alpinism and mountaineering.
Free solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a highly specialized and dangerous form of rock climbing in Nepal. In this form of rock climbing, climbers rely on their physical abilities and climbing shoes rather than any ropes or protective gear.
This style of rock climbing is the most dangerous one among all the forms of rock climbing in Nepal. This is the purest form of the climbing, as the climber has to tackle the routes above the safe heights without any gear.
The top roping is a beginner-friendly type of rock climbing done in Nepal. In this form of climbing, the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. It is done to create a continuous loop to protect the climber in case of a fall.
Top roping can be done in a rock climbing gym or at real outdoor rock walls. It is the safest way to learn the sport and push physical abilities on vertical routes of varying difficulties.
Lead climbing is an advanced rock climbing technique practiced in Nepal. In this form of climbing, climbers ascend a route while attaching their rope to protection points along the way. The climbers don’t rely on a pre-set top rope.
In this climbing, the leader clips their rope into fixed anchors or removable protection devices as they ascend. The belayer stations at the base and manages the rope to catch the climber in case of a fall. To be a leader, you will need to have a solid understanding of gear placement and clipping techniques.
Best places for Rock Climbing in Nepal
There are several destinations that offer the best rock climbing in Nepal. The popular destinations are described below.
Nagarkot rock climbing is the top rock climbing destination in Nepal, known for the stunning views of several mountain ranges and diverse climbing routes. It is located about 32 kilometers east of Kathmandu. You can find the climbing routes ranging from grade 4a to 8a, with heights up to 25 meters.
The popular climbing spots in Nagarkot are Ramkot Boulder, Tower Rock, and Brahma Baba Temple Cliff. These spots offer moderate to advanced climbs suitable for various skill levels, including beginners. The cost of the rock climbing session in Nagarkot is Rs 1200 (subject to additional expenses).
Nagarjun Forest Reserve is a climbing route located within the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. It is approximately a 30-minute drive from Kathmandu. The climbing routes in Nagarjun Forest Reserve offer over 21 routes with varying difficulties ranging from grade 4a to 7a+ and French grades from 5a to 6c+.
The climbing routes in Nagarjun Forest Reserve are beginner-friendly and give a thrill to the experienced climbers as well. From there, you can enjoy the views of the Kathmandu Valley and surrounding hills. Some of the popular areas include Balaju Quarry and Shiva Linga.
Hattiban rock climbing is an adventure destination known for its unique blend of natural beauty and challenging climbs. It is located about 15 to 26 kilometers southwest of Kathmandu. This rock climbing destination offers around 8 to 10 well-bolted routes with grades ranging from approximately 5a to 7a.
The area is surrounded by pine trees and offers scenic views of the Pharping Valley. There, you can also visit the Samye Monastery (Rigon Tashi Choeling Monastery) for the spiritual experience.
Kakani is a popular rock climbing destination in Nepal that offers excellent views of surrounding mountains like Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Gauri Shanker. There are both natural rock formations and excellent views of surrounding mountains like Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Gauri Shanker.
The natural rock climbing in Kakani has six challenging routes on a natural rock face about 20 meters tall. There are technical challenges, so it is recommended for experienced climbers. There are also 15-meter artificial climbing walls near the Mountaineering Park and International Mountaineers Memorial Park.
- Bimal Nagar rock climbing
Bomal Nagar rock climbing is a destination known for the breathtaking views of the Annapurna Himalayas and Mount Manaslu. It is located about 60 km from Pokhara and 140 km away from Kathmandu. This destination offers a towering 90-meter natural rock face with over 20 climbing routes ranging from grade 5a to 8b, including multi-pitch climbs.
There, you can also experience the rich culture and traditions from the locals of the Bimal Nagar.
There are several rock climbing Pokhara destinations. Some of the popular ones are Pokhara Dovilla Boulder Field, Pokhara Methlang Summit Boulder Field, West Indoor Sport Hub (Indoor Climbing Gym), and Three Sisters Rock Climbing.
In these rock climbing destinations, you will get diverse route options with different grades. For example, the Three Sisters Rock Climbing offers 14+ bolted routes on chossy pocketed conglomerate, with difficulty levels ranging from 4b to 7c on the French grading system.
- Climbing centers near Thamel
The best rock climbing in Kathmandu can be done in destinations like Kathmandu Sport Climbing Center (KSNC) and Astrek Climbing Wall. The other options for indoor rock climbing in Kathmandu are Initiative Outdoor and Crimpanzee Adventure Hub.
These destinations offer diverse climbing route options suitable for the different experience levels. All these centers provide the gear rentals and instruction services, also catering to all the skill levels.
Best Time for Rock Climbing in Nepal
The best time for rock climbing in Nepal is the spring season (March to May) and the autumn season (September to November). The early March can be cold, but the other months during the spring offer a great atmosphere for climbing with mild temperatures and less chance of rainfall.
In the autumn season, the weather conditions are stable, perfect for rock climbing in Nepal. Among the months of the autumn, October is considered the best month for rock climbing in Nepal. In October, the visibility is clear with dry weather conditions.
It is not recommended to do rock climbing during the monsoon season due to the heavy rainfall and unstable conditions. Climbing in winter is also not a good idea as the temperatures drop drastically and snowfall happens.
Permits and Regulations
For rock climbing in Nepal, you won’t need specific permits for most of the areas in Nepal. However, if you are planning to climb in the protected areas like in the national park, then you will need to.
You must obtain the permit from NMA for climbing the peaks listed under their jurisdiction. The climbing permit is valid for one month and can be extended for two weeks if required. You can obtain the permit through authorized trekking agencies or directly from the NMA.
If you are going climbing in the Everest region, then you will need a Sagarmatha National Park Entry permit. The other permit, like the Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit, is also required for the climbing.
Required Gear and Equipment for rock climbing
For rock climbing, there are gears and equipment required for safety and other reasons. These gears can be rented in shops of Kathmandu and Pokhara. The important items required for rock climbing in Nepal are:
- Climbing equipment: Climbing Boots, Harness, Helmet, Rope, Carabiners, Belay Device, Quickdraws, Chalk Bag, and Climbing Tape.
- Protection gear: Climbing Protection (Nuts, Cams), Slings and Runners, and Ascenders/Jumars.
- Clothing: Climbing Pants, Moisture-wicking shirts, Insulating Layer, Waterproof Jacket, Sun Hat/Beanie, and many more.
- Miscellaneous gear: Daypack (30-40L), Trekking Poles, First Aid Kit, Headlamp/Flashlight, and more.
- Hydration and Nutrition: Water Bottles and Snacks/Energy Bars.
- Safety Equipment: Whistle and Map/GPS Device.
Tips for Safe and Sustainable Climbing in Nepal
- Hire a professional guide for navigating the terrain safely and effectively.
- Use the quality gear and check if your gear meets the international safety standards.
- Verify the weather conditions of the area you are going for the climb.
- Do warm-up exercises and stretching before going rock climbing.
- Always listen to the guide’s instructions and adhere to the safety protocols.
- Respect the local cultures and traditions of the area you are going to climb.
- Research the permits and customs of the area you plan to climb.
- Familiarize yourself with the local rescue services and keep emergency contact numbers handy.
- Verify that your travel insurance covers high-altitude rock climbing activities, including rescue operations if needed.
- Follow the “leave no trace” principle.
Conclusion
Rock climbing in Nepal offers adventurous journeys with the breathtaking Himalayan scenery. In Nepal, there are diverse climbing spots like Nagarjun, Hattiban, and Bimal Nagar for rock climbing. The popular types of rock climbing include sport climbing, bouldering, and alpine climbing.
The best seasons are spring and autumn for rock climbing. Whatever season you choose for rock climbing, always do it under professional guidance for a safe, thrilling, and culturally enriching experience.
